Hands-OnStudio Underd0g And Fears Reveal The Next Entry In Their Cocktail-Inspired Series With The 02SERIES Manhattan

Many folks across the Atlantic, like me, were very bummed that they were so far away from a chance at getting one of those watches, but, in response to the success with the first collaboration, finally, the East Coast is getting its own cocktail-inspired edition this October.

It is, of course, the new Sudio Underd0g x Fears Manhattan, and it's a good one. Aptly named after the iconic cocktail, the Manhattan takes the same formula created with the Gimlet but imbues it with a warmer, richer tone. The 38mm cushion case, with a thickness of 12mm and lug-to-lug of 43.5mm, is taken from the Fears Brunswick, with a softer square silhouette and very compact lugs. The pronounced onion crown is a nod to the Brunswick's vintage roots, and it is a tactile crown for the manually wound movement.

One glance at the dial, and the two screwheads immediately give away the Studio Underd0g involvement. Like many of the brand's designs, the Manhattan features a 1 mm thick sapphire disc mounted onto the base dial with those two screws. The raised sapphire disc holds all of the printed elements on the dial, including the railroad minutes track, the black-outlined hour numerals, as well as both the Fears and Studio Underd0g logos. In fine print, "Assembled in Great Britain" is included at 6 o'clock. One point of note is that there is some imperfect printing on the dial (especially around the black outlines), though the Manhattan was a non-functional prototype. The sapphire dial is always a fantastic inclusion, giving otherwise flat printed numerals a unique depth, with shadows cast in different lighting as well as a parallax that still feels unique and fresh.

Instead of the hollowed-out hands found on the Gimlet, the Manhattan goes in a different direction, opting for lumed hands colored in a slightly warm tone. It's a fantastic complement to the base dial, which is executed in a captivatingly intense amber fumé sunray finish. This color combination isn't usually what I'd pick, but I couldn't stop staring at it on my wrist. As the watch moves around in the light, different shades of dark brown to intense orange appear through the brushing on the dial.

Inside the watch is the manually-wound Sellita SW210 caliber, with a power reserve of 42 hours. It's a standard microbrand caliber here, but the winding sensation feels crisp, and the slightly oversized crown makes it very easy to wind. It's all encased by a solid caseback, with sunray brushing and nothing more than a small engraving of two cherries (a nod to the drink).

Though I knew I'd like this watch given that I was very sold on the Gimlet, the Manhattan was the first of the series that I've been able to get my hands on, and I wasn't prepared for just how much I'd love it. The Brunswick case is nearly perfect on my smaller wrist, with short lugs yet a very substantial wrist presence, thanks to that cushion case. And though I typically remove the straps that come with new watches and replace them with ones from the collection I've amassed over the years (RIP, Hodinkee Shop), the brown leather strap on the Manhattan, made by British strapmaker The Strap Tailor, is perfect for it. If I bought the Manhattan, it would certainly stay on this strap. 

However, the most exciting part of this watch is undoubtedly its dial. I appreciate that they didn't just opt for a different colored gradient on the sequel, but rather an execution that does feel more fitting to this dial's namesake. If the dial of the Gimlet is light, fresh, and sweet, the dial of the Manhattan is much more intense. 

Just as many folks groaned with the introduction of the Gimlet and its local launch strategy, the launch of the "Manhattan in Manhattan" will surely invoke the same feelings for those unable to visit NYC in October. Yes, the Manhattan is limited to 300 pieces and will be offered exclusively in person at the WindUp Watch Fair from October 17th to the 19th, priced at $1,300. But not to, uh, fear — the two brands have teased a follow-up to the Manhattan, appropriately nicknamed the "Hair of the D0g," releasing at the end of the fair and intended for those who missed out or couldn't make it to New York. Stay tuned.

Given the success of the Gimlet, as well as the popularity of the WindUp Watch Fair, I'm confident that Fears and Studio Underd0g will have no issue selling all of these pieces at the show. May the most eager collectors prevail.

For more, visit Studio Underd0g and Fears.