Hands-OnThe Grand Seiko SLGB005 Limited Edition Pairs A ‘Violet Dawn’ Dial With The Brand's Record Breaking Ultra-Fine Accuracy Movement

Marking the third model in Grand Seiko's recent Ultra-Fine Accuracy (UFA) series, the new Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005 'Violet Dawn' follows the inaugural duo of SLBG001 in platinum and SLGB003 in titanium. From afar, you might be inclined to assume that this is just a different dial for the regular production 37mm titanium model. While you'd be close, there are a few subtle changes that set this version apart.

This time, the SLGB005 is executed in Grand Seiko's Ever-Brilliant Steel, boasting greater corrosion resistance and a slightly brighter color compared to more conventional steel alloys, especially when polished. In the Evolution 9 design language, that means mostly brushed surfaces accented with selective broad facets of Zaratsu polishing. With that smaller 37mm case diameter, thickness of 11.4mm, and water resistance of 100 meters, those who found the compact case in the SLGB001 a bit too light for their liking will definitely appreciate the additional heft of the steel used for this model.

In a move that is sure to confuse many Grand Seiko collectors, this edition in steel does not have the brand-new microadjust clasp that was announced (with plenty of fanfare) with the SLGB003 this past April. Though it is likely a matter of not having the tooling ready to produce the clasp in steel, it will surely disappoint many who were hoping to see the clasp consistently equipped on new releases going forward. This is especially so given that the retail price of $11,100 is slightly higher than the current retail price of the titanium SLGB003, which is $10,900. I have a feeling, however, that the lower price of the titanium model will eventually rise, given that it survived the brand's most price increases earlier this year.

A visual signifier of limited edition models, a solid 18k rose gold Grand Seiko medallion is fitted on the flat, regular Evolution 9 clasp. In the past, we've seen designs also give the applied "GS" logo on the dial a matching gold treatment, but I prefer the classic silver look of this one, as it matches significantly better with the colors of the dial. I would have honestly preferred to omit the rose gold accent entirely, or to make it in white gold, as it stands out like a sore thumb from the rest of the watch's very cool color palette.

But I digress. The focus of the Violet Dawn is all about the dial. It retains the "Ice Forest" pattern from the first two models, inspired by the frost-covered trees of the Kirigamine Highlands near the Shinshu Watch Studio. This take on the almost abstract herringbone motif gets a deep, inky purple treatment with a gradient coloring to a lighter violet towards the center. Like many of Grand Seiko's darker dials, the deep coloring on the lacquer coating above the base dial gives the look of a solid glossy dial in dim lighting, then transitions to a vibrant, ridged dial in broad daylight. It wouldn't be a new Grand Seiko dial without a bit of poetic press release, and this time the color of the dial is said to be "evoking the forests slowly emerging in the morning light."

I know we all say this about a lot of Grand Seiko dials, but the Ice Forest pattern with the Violet Dawn coloring is particularly gorgeous. While the 9RB2 caliber was one of the most impressive things I saw at Watches and Wonders, ice blue as a dial color never really resonated with me, so I've been clamoring for a darker dial to come to the Evolution 9 UFA design. This new purple dial is an absolute home run, with just enough of a gradient to the periphery for a dynamic feel and just enough lacquer to make it absolutely shine (in the literal sense of the term). In the short time I was able to wear the Violet Dawn, I kept taking the watch to the window so I could compare the dial between indoor and outdoor lighting. It's such a different look in each case that it's absolutely fascinating.

The exhibition caseback, thankfully with the more subtle frosted Grand Seiko logo etching, showcases that automatic 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, with a power reserve of 72 hours and that very nice accuracy of +/- 20 seconds a year (translating to approximately +/- three seconds per month). Grand Seiko attributes this improved performance to new manufacturing and processing methods for the quartz oscillator, as well as a revamped thermocompensated integrated circuit system. In addition, one of the lesser-discussed additions is the first regulation switch in a Spring Drive movement, allowing for the timing of the caliber to be adjusted by a watchmaker much more easily during service.

Limited to 1,300 pieces and available starting in November at Grand Seiko Boutiques and select authorized retailers, the new SLGB005 is a very pretty watch that is powered by an absolute beast of a Spring Drive caliber. The dial on this one is so nice, however, that I selfishly wish they just made it a standard production model and added it alongside the titanium SLGB003. However, perhaps a non-limited UFA in steel will one day make an appearance, hopefully paired with the micro-adjustable clasp, as well. 

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