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The first time I ever saw an A. Lange & Söhne was in an article showcasing the Datograph on this very site, wherein it was discussed that Philippe Dufour considered it the greatest chronograph movement ever made. Despite being broadly familiar with fine watchmaking, having been first introduced to the idea in Aspen, Colorado, as a kid (more on that later), I knew nothing about Lange or Dufour at the time, but I was fascinated by this mysterious masterpiece that I'd never heard of. I was instantly enchanted.
Aspen, Colorado
Watches are evocative, conjuring the images of the lifestyles and locales in which they belong. Regardless of whether you are an aspirational buyer or a world-class collector, trying on a new timepiece is likely to be an inspiring experience. For virtually every watch enthusiast, there is a single brand, and often a single watch, that sits at the pinnacle of this horological fantasy life. For a great many people, myself very much included, that brand is A Lange & Söhne.
Recently, I returned to Aspen for the second annual Watch Week Aspen, and I leapt at the opportunity to wear one of the Glashütte-based manufacturer's watches for the duration of the trip. I had a few different choices, but considering the travel, time change, and general vibe of Aspen, one watch in particular seemed ideally suited to the task – the Lange 1 Time Zone.
Lange Evolves
Seasoned readers of Hodinkee may remember Ben's comprehensive Week On The Wrist with Lange 1 Time Zone Luminous all the way back in 2012. Not only does the article go into a significant amount of detail about Lange and the Time Zone's place amongst the Lange 1 collection. It is also a fascinating snapshot of a very different time for both the watch industry and for Lange as a brand. Thirteen years later, both the industry and Lange are in very different places. No longer is the German brand discussed in a questioning and comparative manner to its Swiss counterparts, as Lange has since thoroughly established its place among its peers. Regardless of preference and taste, their stature as one of the finest watch manufactures in the world is beyond question.
Just as Lange's status in the watch world has undergone a transformation over the past decade (with soaring demand and increasingly lengthy waitlists), the Lange 1 Time Zone has also evolved significantly through various updates since its introduction in 2005. With the update to the movement in 2020 to the Caliber L 141.1, the Lange 1 Time Zone updates its dial layout as well. Although at first glance the changes may seem minimal, they amount to a meaningful impact on legibility.
By relocating the day/night indicators from separate subdials to directly underneath the handset of each respective time zone, the watch becomes immediately less cluttered. When the hour hand on either the home time (large) or travel time (small) subdials covers the blue crescent, it indicates PM for that time zone. As small an adjustment as that may seem, the result is a dial which is far more legible (and less intimidating) than that of its predecessors. It's more efficient, more focused, and in a fittingly German fashion, more elegant due to its simplicity.
In addition to relocating the indicator, another indication was added to the smaller travel time zone subdial at 5 o'clock. Nested neatly within the arrow pointing to the selected time zone is a small window that shows either red or white, illustrating that Daylight Saving Time is observed. It's a detail that demonstrates just how pragmatic a watch this Lange actually is. For all its grandeur, including its finely hand-finished and engraved movement, the elegance of the dial, and the weight of the 750 white gold case, the Lange 1 Time Zone is a remarkably practical watch to wear for travel and is equally understated. On one occasion, I found myself wearing the watch with a polo shirt and hiking pants (because, well, Aspen) and found the watch still made perfect sense from a style standpoint.
There are two pushers located on the left side of the case – the top pusher engages the signature outsize date window, and the bottom pusher actuates the time change in the smaller subdial. While wearing the watch, the pushers are both inconspicuous and become virtually unnoticeable whilst on the wrist. With the crown in the second position, half pressing the lower pusher allows you to synchronize the two handsets. From there, it's as simple as a few (very satisfying, I might add) clicks until you arrive at your desired destination.
Wearing an A. Lange & Söhne watch, let me tell you, is a special experience. Lange's are the kind of watches where, before you do anything else, you flip it over and marvel at the beauty of the movement architecture and finishing. The Lange 1 Time Zone is no exception. All of the trappings are here – the German silver, blued screws, two-toned accents, and magnificent, floral hand engraving. Despite the 42mm case size, the watch is plenty comfortable and contours to the wrist wonderfully (even on my admittedly svelte 6.5-inch wrist).
The weight of the gold case is solid, yet not obtrusive. Despite the relative complexity of its function and the asymmetrical presence of two subdials, it is a very finely balanced watch to look at, with the power reserve indicator filling out the otherwise empty space at around 3 o'clock. Due to the amount of space the dial occupies within the case, the watch appears smaller than its dimensions might suggest. It is, as you may expect, a quietly luxurious experience.
Going Home Again
Touching down at the Denver Airport and glancing down at my wrist, I felt a swell of emotion, returning to where it all started. I also couldn't help but marvel at how quickly and easily I was able to set the time. There was no fuss, no GMT-related consideration or arithmetic in my head required (don't lie, we all do it) – just click, click, click, and before my cell phone had recovered from its airplane-mode-induced-brain-fog, my watch was set.
I'll spare you, dear reader, too much of the personal sentiment or sappiness of my week with the Lange 1 Time Zone. As I've mentioned, Aspen was very near to where I grew up. It is also where I was introduced to fine watchmaking in the first place, at Meridian Jewelers, the partner that operates Lange's own boutique right next door on East Cooper Ave.
The best watches are imbued with meaning, and this watch, though it was not my own, was no exception. Lange has for many years been the pinnacle of fine watchmaking in my eyes and the answer to the almost clichéd query at watch meetups – if you could have any watch, what would it be? I am certainly not alone in that sentiment.
Now, to be clear, I have never particularly been one to concern myself with the opinions of others when it comes to the watches that I wear or own. I love sharing my passion and enthusiasm for watches with just about anyone who will listen (my wife is very patient with me in this regard), but when it comes to the actual enjoyment of the watch, it is a purely selfish pursuit. It was in the quiet moments when no one was around, checking into my hotel after a long day of travel or between meetings, that I stole glances at my wrist not to check the time, but to indulge in the beauty of the object peeking out from underneath my cuff.
With all of that said, wearing a Lange around other watch nerds is so much fun. With each "So what do you have on today?" and the subsequent "oohs" and "ahs" that would inevitably follow, one can't help but feel like the belle of the ball (if only a little bit). Even in a place as glamorous (and expensive) as Aspen, surrounded by watches from some of the absolute finest collections in the world, there was not a single instance where showing off this watch didn't elicit adoration.
The Lange 1 is a design that is at the very heart of A. Lange & Söhne, and it is an aesthetic that has become synonymous with German watchmaking. The addition of the time zone complication makes this watch even more interesting and further distinguishes it amongst its siblings as something just a bit more special. Coupling all that with the watch's ease of use, understated and elegant looks, and its undeniable utility, the Lange 1 Time Zone might just be the best travel watch in the world. Failing that, it certainly is the prettiest.
For more information, A. Lange & Söhne online.
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