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What We Know
Anniversaries are probably the watch industry's favorite marketing occasion, but aside from the storytelling aspect that you get every five years or so, it's also a great opportunity to try something new. In the small (yet extremely prolific) watchmaking town of Glashütte, Germany, several brands celebrate a significant local anniversary — the start of watchmaking in this particular valley in Saxony, which has blossomed into a horological powerhouse. This year, in celebration of 180 years of Glashütte watchmaking, Glashütte Original introduces a stellar take on its PanoMaticLunar with the PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition.
In a year that marks the opening of the brand's new dial manufacture in town, GO releases its first-ever aventurine glass dial for this special edition of 180 pieces. The sparkling dial graces the brand's asymmetrical moonphase watch, in a platinum case with a diameter of 40mm, height of 12.8mm, and lug-to-lug of 47mm.
Aside from the discs of the framed Panorama Date, a signature of the brand, the rest of the dial is all deep blue aventurine, with the various subdials of the off-center layout slightly stepped to subtly preserve the outlines of each. The moonphase disc also gets the matching aventurine treatment, with the moon itself made out of white mother-of-pearl for a different kind of iridescent shimmer. White gold hands and applied hour makers paired with stark white printing on the dial complete the look.
Although it may seem like another limited edition with a new dial, there is one aspect that I think makes this edition quite significant. It is the first PanoMaticLunar to receive the upgraded Calibre 92-14 movement. An in-house movement with a generous 100-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring, the new 92 series caliber trickles down some of the improvements seen in larger-cased models like the PanoMaticCalendar. From the back, visible through the exhibition caseback, the movement is dramatically decorated, featuring a dark galvanic grey treatment on the three-quarter plate, off-center rotor, and bridges, all contrasted by accents and engravings in yellow gold. On this darker finish, the gold on the hand-engraved balance bridge shines even more.
The new Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition in platinum is limited to 180 pieces and priced at $39,500.
What We Think
Aventurine glass always unlocks the most primitive caveman "ooh, shiny" reaction in me, and this new PanoMaticLunar edition is no different. It's especially cool to see it on a watch with quite a generously sized dial, when most aventurine executions I'm familiar with come in more compact, dressier silhouettes. The inclusion of the little mother-of-pearl moon is also a fantastic touch, making this quite a dazzling display to introduce the 92-series movement to the brand's 40mm case size.
Does this mean we'll eventually see this improved movement rolled out across the rest of the PanoMaticLunar line? I certainly hope so. For now, having it in this anniversary edition is a welcome start. As I've noted in several recent Glashütte Original releases I've covered, the $39,500 price tag is substantial, but it still offers impressive value within its category. In platinum, it's priced lower than many alternatives in white gold. Glashütte Original may be fortunate in this regard: despite being part of the Swatch Group, its German origin has shielded it somewhat from the steep tariffs that have recently driven up prices for many Swiss brands.
It may be wishful thinking, but if Glashütte Original continues on this path, it could carve out a unique value proposition in high-end watchmaking and potentially attract more collectors to the German side of horology.
The Basics
Brand: Glashütte Original
Model: PanoMaticLunar
Reference Number: 1-92-14-01-03-61
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 12.8mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Color: Blue aventurine glass
Indexes: Applied white gold markers
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 5 bar
Strap/Bracelet: Alligator leather or textile strap with platinum folding clasp
The Movement
Caliber: 92-14
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, moonphase, Panorama Date
Power Reserve: 100 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Jewels: 39
Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: $39,500
Availability: Glashütte Original boutiques and selected retailers
Limited Edition: Yes, 180 pieces
For more, click here.
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